Our scheduled boat tour around Malta was canceled due to rough seas. Instead, we were taken north and west around the lee sides of the island to Comino. Malta consists of three principal inhabited islands: Malta, Gozo and Comino. Comino is the smallest, really just a big sun-baked, barren rock; but it is a valuable wildlife sanctuary, with no cars or roads, and has only about six permanent residents.

The major tour company on the islands is Captain Morgan Cruises and this was one of its boats. As we rounded the north coast of Comino and reached calmer waters, the strains of Tom Jones wafted from the speakers: Delilah, Release Me, Spanish Eyes, Green Grass of Home. Over and over, even as we were docked in the Blue Lagoon. Not loud, but a constant presence. One of the company's other ships, the Fernandes, a sailing ship with two masts and lots of rigging but no sails, tied up next to us. Its featured entertainer was Patsy Cline.

I walked alone over bare rocks, among the scrub and sea shells, dodging lizards, my shoes quickly covered with rust-colored dust. The desolation of the island was no more evident than when I was out of sight of all other humans. I could imagine the scorching summers and the wet windy chill of winters.

In the Blue Lagoon, however, the weather was warm and calm. Some tourists went swimming. Small speedboats came and went, seemingly floating on air. The water was so clear as to be invisible between the boat and its shadow below.