Mediterranean 2001: Star Clipper

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13 September, Thursday: Camogli, Italy


We took a taxi down the hill to the train station and set out for Camogli, with a change of trains in Genoa. This route takes us along the Ligurian Riviera, a tourist paradise with vineyards, olive groves, coastal resorts, and walking or hiking trails.


Hotel Cenobio Dei Dogi
Hotel Cenobio Dei Dogi
Camogli is a small fishing port on the north end of the Portofino peninsula. Set on a steep hill, the town climbs from the harbor and dark pebble beaches to groves of pine and olive trees. Many of the narrow pastel houses are decorated in trompe-l'oeil, a painting technique often used on stage scenery which makes a flat surface seem multi-layered. These houses seemed to have interesting window and door casings which in reality were just flat painted surfaces. Indeed, some windows and doors were not even real.

The name Camogli is a contraction of Casa Mogli (Wives' House) from the days when the women ran the town while the men spent months at sea with the town's huge fishing fleet. Today, the fleet is much smaller and the men have resumed control of civic affairs. Piles of fishing nets filled with sleeping cats cover the docks along the great 17th century seawall.

By the time we arrived, ominous clouds covered the sky. We checked into our hotel, Cenobio dei Dogi, formerly a summer villa of the doges of Genoa; and then set out to look over the harbor, have a gelato, take some pictures, and enjoy the high surf. At the end of the harbor, built into sheer rock is the Castello della Dragonara which houses the Acqario (Aquarium).

By dinner time, the rains came. We had pizza at Ristorante La Rotonda which offers a nice view of the beach and sea, even in a rainstorm.


The Italian Riviera in Autumn I The Italian Riviera in Autumn II
The Strand Castel Dragone
Cannon Sunday Afternoon
Trompe l'Oeil Windows Ave Gratia Plena
What is real and what is painted? The pediments? The shutters? The flowers? The curtains? View a high resolution image.

Ave Maria, gratia plena, Dominus tecum, benedicta tu, In mulieribus et benedictus, Fructus ventris tui Jesus.

Sancta Maria, Sancta Maria, Maria ora pro nobis, Nobis peccatoribus, Nunc et in hora mortis nostrae.



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