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The piazza is shaped like a big
fan, sloping down to the entrance of the Palazzo Pubblico (Town Hall). Around the edge
of the piazza were many restaurants with outdoor tables. When we arrived, a large sound
stage was being set up in front of the Palazzo for a rock concert to be held later tonight.
Teenage girls had already staked out their space right in front of the stage as hunky
shirtless stagehands were hanging giant speakers.
We came across the Museo dell’Opera Metropolitania, which houses all the extra art that
used to be in the cathedral. We climbed up
its tower which offers a panoramic view of Siena’s “jigsaw puzzle” of roofs and
streets, as well as the surrounding countryside. Even with a cloudy sky, the view was stunning.
It was a long climb up narrow and winding stairs (tough if
someone was coming down at the same time). We then continued our walk through the
narrow streets, stopping in several which specialized in ceramics. Beautiful stuff!
We drove back to the Villa Dievole and moved into our rooms. Each room had three
complimentary bottles of wine, an extremely generous touch. Then, a walk around
the grounds. Very tranquil, with a large tree-covered yard filled with flowers and
other plants. We took one of our complimentary bottles of wine and sat for a while. A small
dog and two cats, masters of this domain, checked us out and gave their approval. Below
the garden is a swimming pool and, beyond, a valley, vineyards, and more hills. Peaceful.
We were now looking forward to a wonderful Tuscan meal. We went to the dining room
and found it full of people enjoying a fine meal. But. This was a special wine tasting
group. We would have to eat in the “other” dining room across the patio. We entered a
large quiet room with a long oval table. A solitary couple sat at one end, just beginning
their meal in candlelight. Assuming they wanted to dine alone, we moved to the other
end of the table. Along with the menu, the waitress brought our own candle. So we ate,
at this long table, two people at each end, in candlelight, with a dozen pairs of eyes
staring at us. Ah yes, the walls were covered with large faces, photos of the faces of
workers from the villa, huge smiling Avedon-type faces complete with pores. These would
be enjoyable to look at in other circumstances but rather disconcerting at dinner. And
after all of this, the meal was just average, nothing special. Is this real Tuscan cooking?
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